In late June 2025, my 50th birthday celebrations were put on hold as my partner’s parents decided on an extended trip to Europe, perhaps their last, for which I was volunteered to chauffeur us around Northern Italy for 2 weeks during one of the most intense heatwaves since the week I was born.
Her mum was determined to see all cinque of the Cinque Terre villages and some of Milan’s popular tourist sites. Her dad came along for the ride, perhaps watching more table tennis and political clickbait on his iPad than the historical sites, and asking why there was only Italian food when Singapore had much more variety (The Three Amigos anyone?).
With two weeks to fill, my only stipulation was that we start with a few days in Tortona, home of my favourite grape: Timorasso, the grape and region that spurred me to start writing about wine.
I knew I’d naturally set myself ad-hoc side missions to seek out lesser-known native grapes in every subsequent destination.
The Itinerary:
Tortona (Piemonte) – starting off in one of my happy places in Italy, exploring Derthona Timorasso wines and seeing familiar faces.
Levanto (Liguria) – a seaside town as a base to explore the villages of Cinque Terre (and seek out the local grapes Bosco, Vermentino Nero and rarer Rossese Biancoand Piccabòn)
Parma (Emilia-Romagna) – I knew about the ham. Other than that, it was a good base to visit Japanese winemaker Shun Minowa and discover some of the 17 Lambrusco clones such as Grasparossa.
Bergamo (Lombardy) – a relatively arbitrary choice based on its location, the appeal of an old town, and an opportunity to taste the rare grapes Moscato di Scanzo(also Italy’s smallest DOCG) and Erbanno
Milan (Lombardy) – The Last Supper, Milan Duomo and that fancy shopping arcade next to it were on the bucket list for our visitors. I was also able to track down one of the few (perhaps the only) bottles of Cascina Lieto’s Moscato, from Japanese winemaker Hiroto Sasaki.
The itinerary map can be seen in the image above. My wine haul can be seen on Instagram here
Day 13 – back in Milan
My Milan
I am fairly familiar with Milan from various business trips to meet a team I worked with there. The first time I visited, I stayed just south of the centre, near Porto Ticinesa and the canals, which has become my go-to place, despite being quite touristy and crowded in the evenings.
My regular haunts include:
Bar Nicol (map) – for a morning coffee and evening aperitivo. I have an affiliation for this place after chatting with the owner, Luca, who showed me the negative review he received, and subsequently printed out, framed and hung it behind the bar. Instagram post here.
Mangiari di Strada (map) – a butcher and natural wine stand that also serves cheese boards from their cheese stall in the same covered market
Vinoir (map) – another natural wine spot a bit further out along the canal
Giusti (map) – the central Milan boutique store of the iconic balsamic vinegar producer
It was great to be able to spend a bit more free time exploring the area and finding some new favourite spots. As I have often found, you only need to step a few metres of the well-troden path to find some hidden (and much quieter) gems.
Accommodation at Maison Borella
Amanda had splashed out and organised accommodation at the charming boutique hotel, Maison Borella (map), right on the canal, a minimalist concrete stairwell in contrast with the otherwise classic interior. The rooms surround a courtyard around, so most are lovely and quiet in the evening. They do a decent enough breakfast (“stellar” by Italian standards of stale bread, an espresso and a cigarette) with passable coffee, and, if you ask nicely, they’ll get you scrambled eggs that haven’t been sitting in the same bowl as the bacon…then reheat them in the microwave. But I’m nit picking. It was a lovely stay.
Aperitivo at E/N
My first stop was Enoteca Naturale which opens at 18:00 and already had a small number of guests waiting. A lively spot with indoor and outdoor seating that can get unmanageably busy at times, requiring queueing for seating, ordering, paying, and, I expect, peeing (I’m a bit of a grump, and avoid such busy times/places).
I got chatting with the manager, Guido, explaining that I was looking for a bottle of Cascina Lieto from a Japanese winemaker. He had Shun Minowa’s in stock, but no Lieto. He then did the kindest thing, and offered to call around a few of his friends’ establishments in Milan to check if they could help. By the time I had finished a glass of yet another Tuscan Vermentino (Bianco 2025, I Mandorli: A lovely natural Tuscan Vermentino. Ripe pear leaning towards a little peach with à soupçon of something mineral) he had tracked down one of the few bottles of Cascina Lieto in Milan. It was at Altatto – a vegetarian restaurant on the outskirts of town. I was given the owner/chef’s number to follow up – changing existing reservations elsewhere to organise dinner at Altatto the following day.
Cocktails in the world’s smallest cocktail bar
After having seen Backdoor 43 (map) in various travel shows, I had made a reservation for cocktails on our first night.
It seems now to be under new ownership or management, or maybe has simply changed theme or barman. Gone are the impromptu cocktails based on tarot cards, and in come a well devised menu of varied cocktails with profiles to suit most, and a talented barman who is up for a challenge if nothing on the menu grabs you.
I had arrived slightly late to find a dishevelled Amanda tearing into the poor barman about the heat, the smell of smoke, the lighting, the size of the bathroom (bigger than the bar) and any other grievance she felt like venting – the heat of the day and fatigue of the trip finally catching up with her.
Gigi (barman) was an absolute star. Originally from Sicily, of Asian heritage, he now lives in Milan and runs the bar single-handedly. I opted for a few whisky based cocktails -nothing too sweet or fruity, the first from the menu, the second off-menu, while the parents opted for mocktails.
All the cocktails were excellent. Sufficient variety between drinks, novel enough to be interesting, yet nothing too gimmicky, and great balance of flavours and alcohol.
You need to book a 30-minute slot in advance, paying a deposit to cover one drink each, with a maximum of 4 people able to fit in.
I would later discover that Backdoor 43 is part of a larger group of cocktail bars, including the adjoining Mag Cafe. I had clearly overlooked this, assuming it was just another cheap spritz bar by the canal. Note to self: visit Mag Cafe next time.
While the Puns opted for an Asian restaurant nearby (I’m not a huge fan of Chinese food, less so in countries where there’s no big ex-pat community or diaspora), so opted for the natural wine bar, Flor. opposite which I recall from my first trip when it was under a different management..
Aperitivo at Flor.
Flor. (map) has the perfect balance of a friendly local, regular crowd and vibe, and passing trade to keep it busy and lively. The owners are really friendly and one was happy to practice his English alongside my attempts at Italian. There are small plates available that can do for an evening if you don’t feel like a full meal.
Calluna 2025, Podere Marella – a rosé from Gamay & Sangiovese Drank for enjoyment with no detailed notes. From memory: lovely fruit concentration (for a rosé). Natural. Clean. Fresh. Enjoyable.
L’Antidoto , Underground – a conundrum. Feels oaky. But I’m told it’s late harvest. NV. Back label states the bottler and Milan distributor. Baker pear and mandarin orange. Broad. Textured. If it was sweeter; it would be great with an apple pastry dish. Mi piace molto
Bakren, Az. Agricola Sosol Ivan – what Pinot Grigio can be in the right hands. None of is this insipid, industrial supermarket plonk, but a grape grown well and vinified by someone who cares. There’s an earthy apricot aroma, light skin tannings, subtle flavours on the palate which focuses on texture and freshness. Love it!
A Razzo 2025, Viticola Mereu Sorgono – a lovely fresh rosato enjoyed chilled in a natural wine bar in Milan during a heatwave Preceded by 2 strong whisky-based cocktails at Back Door 43, so my palate and mind are quite floppy. A bit volatile, but works after my previous imbibements. Red fruit. Fruity. Fresh acidity. Enjoyed every drop.
Day 14 – The touristy stuff
One of the highlights of the trip after Cinque Terre – The Last Supper, and Il Duomo di Milano (the cathedral).
The Last Supper
We set off after breakfast for the Last Supper, with Punicking in full flow, insisting on getting there far too early, so we had time to kill in the increasing heat of the day. Thankfully it’s free to enter the church (Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie), and the cloisters at the back are shaded, cool and pleasant, so we could avoid the worst of the heat.
It was as expected. Both spectacular and anticlimactic. Impressive and yet so familiar as to be slightly underwhelming (most likely due to us being cynical sods). Definitely worth visiting and I’m glad we did, although a few minutes was enough for my attention span, and I moved on to the cooler airconed foyer outside the gift shop, perfectly designed with only one door to enter/leave, forcing tourists to step over or shove past each other to look at goods we had no intention of buying.
Tips for the last supper:
Arriving 15 minutes in advance seems to be plenty enough time
If you have to wait around, check out the Basilica
If you have an online ticket (pretty much the only way to guarantee to get in), you need to validate it at the office next door (to the left of the entrance), where you must also leave any food/drink/bags in the free lockers
The lockers are only available 15 minutes before your entrance time (so others can use it)
Don’t take any videos. They tell you. There are signs everywhere. Yet still there are some that try, and get told off quite firmly
Last Supper ✅. A rather disappointing coffee (my choice) and lunch (best of limited options in the area with pending group hanger) then on we went to the Duomo, just a few metro stops away.
Duomo di Milano
The Duomo is architecturally impressive. I really should have read up on it before going, or even before writing about it. It’s also beside an equally impressive indoor shopping arcade with Italy’s glammest and blingest brands – so it doesn’t take a leap of the imagination to realise it is going to be jam-packed with tourists.
Trying to navigate our way to the shopping arcade, while hugging the shade wherever possible, we stopped off in a random open door for some aircon to cool down and recharge, then got to the arcade for that obligatory photo as proof we’d been and promise ourselves to never return.
Crossing the Piazza del Duomo, we found the entrance and baked in the direct sun, fanning ourselves frantically while trying to stand in each others’ shadows until we were allowed in.
It’s impressive. I’d almost go as far as to say “worth it” (price, wait, heat, queues). Here’s what you need to know:
Milan Duomo tips:
buy your tickets online in advance, if not you’ll have to go to a different queue and may not get a time slot you want
bring a sleeved top, and a something to wrap around your waist (a second top or a longer skirt) if your knees are visible
Expect to wait in a long queue with no shade
Expect to be oggled by the security guards as they stare at your thighs, wondering whether your clothes are too short (I notice the Italiban didn’t pay as much attention to my legs!). Avoid the hassle, and wear something long-ish. You can also buy ponchos nearby to cover up any offending shoulders.
Men have to take hats off indoors (something I personally agree with, globally), yet women can wear head coverings
Old wine
After the Duomo, where we all looked at each other to see who would crack first and say “I’m done, let’s go”, I convinced them to make the additional short walk to Giusti Boutique (map) for a drop-in tasting at the outlet for the famous Balsamic vinegar brand. The staff were friendly, although it’s the luck of the draw what kind of explanation and guided tasting you get. In-depth history and details of the barrel ageing, or a few token samples of various vinegars.
Either way, it’s a great place to experience the difference in quality and profile between the various aged vinegars.
We picked up a small bottle of their Vermouth (which seemed a bargain in comparison to the prices of the premium vinegars) for an aperitivo back at the hotel.
Aperitivo crawl
Aperitivo 1 – Giusti Vermouth in the hotel room with sparkling water from the minibar.
Aperitivo 2 – Vinoir (map) from where we would take the short bus ride to Altatto. We had:
Bianco 2025, Manfredi Franco: a cracking Sicilian Grillo with semi-dried fruit flavours: white raisin, sultana, mango, papaya kinda vibe. A bit of mouth weight, yet fresh and saline with a streak of grapefruit pith
Chèrmisi 2025: A fresh natural rosé wine from Merlot & Syrah from one of the closest wine region to Milan. Earthy red fruit nose. Pleasant and fresh with red cherry flavours
Aperitivo 3 – arriving 20 minutes early, we found a cocktail bar next door called Feat.Barona with a friendly barman, retro (70s/80s) music and premade cocktails that were actually very pleasant and hit the spot.
Dinner at Altatto
Arriving at Altatto, unfashionably early as always, we were seated, fed and wined.
The decor is minimalist Scandinavian and they get it spot on. Sparce and modern, yet warm and comfortable.
The food is fusion-y, feeling more like an experiment in progress with the Asian elements not quite blending in. For anyone familiar with Asian food – leave your expectations at the door, and just treat it as Italian food that’s trying out a few new things. Like your teenage niece checking out through various phases.
The offering: 4 courses for €59 – add wine pairing for €35. No cover charge. Black-clad staff, one chewing gum.
Dish 1: feta cheese & red pepper brulée with “nan” bread (closer to a large poori) with a few chunks of sweet potato on the side – we weren’t entirely sure how to eat this.
Wine 1: Vin da Ciacole 2025, Tenuta La Cà – mineral focused with some citrus pith freshness, albeit a little harsh overall.
Dish 2: Mushroom tempura with preserved lemon (of which I’m not a fan). The mushrooms were tasty, although overall it was little heavy/greasy lacking the lightness of Japanese tempura. I felt that this would have worked better with Japanese pickles for the fat-cutting acidity rather than preserved lemons. Perhaps also better as a winter dish?
It came with the most bizarre type of triple chopsticks that were harder to use than the real thing.
Wine 2: Al Tatto 2025, Josef/Luca Francesconi – a Tokaj Friuliano (aka Friulano aka Sauvignonasse – an acronym I personally like) produced under the restaurant’s label. Simple. Fresh. Citrus.
Dish 3: Risotto with goats butter, fig and mustard drizzle and powdered fig leaf. Al dente. This reminded me of coconut creamed rice.
Wine 3: Luce 2024, Poggio Cagnano – a “modern” Sangiovese. I presume this means less structure and lower tannins. Some iron on the nose and slight tartness to the palate.
Dish 4: an amuse-bouche – we each got a different option – hard wax shell with a Moscow Mule interior – pull the candle wicks to create a hole and drink from it. The other (on spoon) was a non-alcoholic G&T. I didn’t take it too seriously, or any notes for that matter.
Dish 5: Chova (?) with rosemary butter and caramel Sichuan pepper. The pastry was a little dry and cardboardy like the last profiterol at closing time. The flavours, interesting and thought provoking, yet ultimately less than the sum of their parts. As someone once described Harry Potter books – “enjoyable, yet instantly forgettable”.
Wine 4: the highlight of the line-up – Perera Passito 2022, Borgodus – a rare single varietal Perera. From a micro-producer who has decided to take this grape, usually used in as one of several grapes in Prosecco and make it in a passito style. Light yet subtly concentrated honey, citrus, yellow fruit verging on tinned peach, but not too heavy or dense. Bizarrely choice of stemware, that, if served in a native English-speaking country, I’d have likely insisted on something more conventional. As it is, my nose got wet sniffing this one, with no sense of distance.
Wine 5: (taken away) Cascina Lieto 2024
Day 15
Our last day in Italy, and we had dedicated ourselves to a slow morning, a slow, boozy afternoon, and a long overdue dinner at 28 Posti.
Hunt for a specialty coffee
Walking to Hygge (map), a specialty coffee joint billed as a “brunch restaurant”, we discovered that this was no hidden gem: already pretty full, and with the ubiquitous sparce Nordic interior, it was a but busy, loud and echoey for us.
We decided to explore a new (for us) part of town and check out Fatum Café (map), another “brunch” restaurant which I presumes helps sell the idea of expensive (higher quality) coffee to locals. The aircon was broken and our heart went out to the barista having to work behind a hot coffee machine (less so to his colleague who we almost had to drag to the table to serve us).
Great coffee. Well prepared. And I took a photo of the coffee beans to use in a future post about how to increase your chances of finding a better coffee (if the beans are black and smell burnt … they’re burnt. And the quality of the latte art gives a good indication of the texture, and the care the barista puts into the milk frothing – a foamy spoldge is a warning sign).
Lunch at Iter
Another venue I discovered on the Raisin app. Only a few meters off the busy canalside, but a world away. Part of the same group as Backdoor 43, it had a wide range of wine and spirits, and a travel theme with hot air balloons (on theme with WineFogg) and memorabilia from the owners’ travels adorning the walls.
We arrived before the lunch crowd, installed ourselves at the bar and got chatting with the staff, who shared our passion for exploring different drinks and flavours.
Out came the house wines, natural, bottled and labelled as generic wines. Then we spotted a few interesting things on the menu, and were treated to a variety of tasters: olive spirits, bitters, another one with different levels of smoke. We simply enjoyed the slow afternoon, ordering a pasta dish to share to soak up the booze (kindly, without asking, served in two separate bowls).
A great spot for a slow afternoon and local vibe, and thanks to the barman, I now know that Martini isn’t just cheap, industrial produced Vermouth (just most of it)… they also have a premium range too that’s much more pleasant.
Tripstillery for the trio
Tripstillery (map) came recommended by Gigi (Backdoor 43) and is part of the same group of cocktail bars, making it our 3rd of the trip. Although part of the same group, each venue has its own vibe, menus, management (?) and are certainly not any kind of homogenous chain. It seems there are two Tripstillery venues in Milan, this being the smaller one.
Amanda was delighted to find a green, pandan-based cocktail – something she had been craving in flavour and colour.
Aperitivo at E/N
Back to E/N for an aperitivo before dinner, keen to support them and show my gratitude for the help finding Cascina Lieto.
La Lupa 2024, San Fereolo: Dolcetto rosato. Confected cherry aromas, almost artificial (clearly not, as a natural wine). Fresh and refreshing. A little more strawberry profile on the palate. Very (very) light tannins. A nice refreshing summer day rosato
Arancio/ Giusto 2024: a little volatile with a cider vinegar note The palate goes between apple cider and subtle pear Not perfect, but thankfully free of mouse/brett, and enjoyable nevertheless Made by I Forestieri in collaboration with E/N (Enoteca Naturale in Milan). Toscana IGT. Perhaps Vermentino
Our last supper – 28 Posti
28 Posti (map) had been on my radar since my first trip to Milan in 2021, but the stars had never aligned with opening times and availability. It was therefore one of my highlights, and I had made the reservation months beforehand.
Inside, it’s minimalist, modern, no fuss with excellent food – well prepared, great flavour combinations and texture and use of non-Italian ingredients that blended in perfectly. The staff are friendly, professional, attentive and knowledgeable.
As the last meal of the trip, the focus was on relaxing and enjoying, with no notes taken. The photos and menu description will have to suffice.
Muni Epoché 2023, Daniele Piccinin: a zero-dosage traditional method Durella from the Veneto region. 24 months on lees. Subtle yeast / toast complexity with a bone dryness introducing an almost sour note (yet refreshing)
Milan afterhoughts
The area proved to be perfect for us with so many bars and restaurants within a short walking distance, despite the trek into the centre to see the more touristy spots.
The group of cocktail bars refered to above is the Farmily Group who own Iter, Backdoor 43 and Tripstillery amongst others.
Trip afterhoughts
Given that we were a little aimless, and travelling at a terrible (hot, busy) time, would I recommend doing a similar trip? That depends entirely on what you’re after. I have several general travel tips that I’d highlight for any such trip:
have a goal/purpose. For me, I focused on local wine and rare grapes. Amanda’s mum wanted to see Cinque Terre, The Last Supper and Milano Duomo.
do a bit more research on what to see/do in each town to ensure you don’t miss anything you’ll later wish you experienced
always allow for a few evenings of winging it and seeing what happens – this is often where the best experiences occur
avoid the crowds – many of the charms are away from the main tourist strips
embrace the mistakes. They’ll inevitably happen. You’ll laugh about them later – so you may as well start early and laugh about them at the time.
Final photo by the canal before heading to the airport
