The much overlooked wines of Cyprus
A bit of history
3500-3000 B.C. : Cyprus is producing sweet wines in the style of what is now called Commandaria.
Traditionally, wine was produced in Cyprus in clay pots (pythari) from indigenous grape varieties.
1900s : Cyprus tried to compete with other European wine producing countries, ripping up indigenous vines and planting international varieties to produce basic table wines & brandies. These were exported in bulk (even whole tanker ships to Russia).
4 large scale wineries dominated the scene: ETKO, KEO, SODAP & LOEL which still exist today.
1980s : the Cypriot government encouraged smaller scale family winemaking, funded by the EU and private investment
2000s : continued focus on quality rather than quantity, and on indigenous Cypriot grape varieties, with some producers once again using the traditional pythari . The bar being raised, the big 4 producers have been keeping up and improving the quality of their wines.
Often overshadowed by Greek wines in terms of quality and international standing, Cypriot wines can be side-lined on wine lists across Cyprus. Locals often opt for cheaper table wine or premium imported wines.
While only a few notable Cypriot wines can compete internationally (including the world’s oldest produceded wine) their quality has increased over the last decades, can be a great match for the local food, and deserve our support and attention while visiting Cyprus.
My advice would be to try a selection of wines and find out which styles / producers resonate with you.
Drink the local wines with the local food (whites will go well with the seafood, and structured reds with heavier meats).
Bring a few of your favourites back as souvenirs and a few bottles of Commandaria to share with friends.
Fun Facts
- Cyprus was the first country in Europe to make wine.
- Cyprus’ indigenous varieties are reportedly some of the oldest in the world.
- Cyprus has the world’s oldest produced wine and PDO:
- Commandaria
- has been produced for over 5,000 years
- was a favourite wine of the Pharaohs of Egypt, and more recently Cleopatra.
- was the winner of the world’s first wine competition in 1224.
The Grapes
Many grapes grown in Cyprus are international varieties. Thanks to the efforts of heroic local winemakers, there is ever more focus on indigenous grapes and alternative wine styles
Of the indigenous varieties, the 2 main ones to note are: Xynisteri (white) and Mavro (red).
Commandaria can only be made using one or both of these 2 grapes
Other Indigenous grapes to look out for are (in order of quantity grown):
White: Spourtiko, Promara, Kanella, Morokanella, Michalia, Vasilissa,
Red: Maratheftiko (aka Vamvakada), Yiannoudi, Ofthalmo, Omoia, Glouriko, Maroucha, Sideritis, Lefkada*
*arguably Greek in origin
The main international varieties grown are:
White: Altesse, Assyrtiko, Chardonnnay, Muscat of Alexandria (aka Malaga), Palomino, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon.
Red: Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Mataro (aka Mourvèdre), Merlot, Shiraz.
The Styles
Cyprus produces a range of styles from dry, medium-sweet, to sweet (both reds and whites).
You can expect to find:
- Dry, refreshing white wines (some with oak for body).
- Some minerals (although not a common or defining character).
- Light, fresh reds.
- Structured, tannic, high acid reds.
- Sweet & semi-sweet whites & reds.
- The famous Commandaria (similar in flavour profile to a Tawny Port, although locals may not be happy with this simplified comparison).
Commandaria (“commanda-REE-ah“)
Many articles have been written about Commandaria, and any winery visit or tour is likely to repeat this information, so I will give only the briefest of introductions and let readers explore further themselves:
- Only 2 grapes can be used (Xinisteri & Mavro) and must come from the 14 villages in the Commandaria PDO region
- Grapes must be from non-irrigated vines that are over 4 years old, grown, dried and pressed in these villages
- The must (juice) is then supplied to winemakers throughout Cyprus who must age it for at least 2 years in oak barrels
The Producers
There are at least 60 producers in Cyprus of which (according to Matthew Stowell’s Guide to the Wines & Wineries of Cyprus) 56 are “wineries” with premises to visit & taste.
Below is a snapshot of some producers to look out for on wine lists and perhaps even visit in person:
Ayia Mavri (“Saint Black”)
8 Archimandriti Kyprianou E803, Koilani, 4776 – map
ayiamavriwinery.com
- The oldest family winery in Cyprus, established in 1983 by Ioannis Ioannidou.
- Producing 50,000 bottles/year, the labels were hand designed Mrs Yiannoula.
- With the cellar wall covered in international awards for their wines, the ones to look out for are:
- Mosxatos (Muscat of Alexandria) – a sweet muscat
- AEION ESTI (Shiraz) – a sweet Shiraz
Zambartas
39 Grigores Afxentiou, Agios Amvrosios 4710 – map
www.zambartaswineries.com
- Founded in 2006 by Akis Zambartas, who worked as a winemaker in some of the biggest producers in Cyprus.
- Now run by his son Marcos Zambartas who has converted the previous family home above the winery to a tasting room with picturesque mountain views.
- A modern, technical winery that hasn’t compromised on heritage or quality.
- Their most celebrated wines include:
- Single Vineyard Xinisteri
- Rosé (Lefkada/Cabernet Franc)
- Single Vineyard Lefkada (best drank at 5 years old or more)
Other notable producers :
- Argyrides
Founded in 2000 by Pambos Argyrides who taught himself winemaking from travels in France, Spain & California.
Pambos’ daughter Rebecca now manages the winery with oenologist Sophocles Vlassides
Their Viognier is much talked about and sends local sommeliers wild
www.vasawinery.com - Tsiakkas
Initially focusing on international grape varieties, Costas & Marina Tsiakkas have moved more towards indigenous grapes such as Xinisteri, Mavo, Vamvakada (Maratheftiko), Yiannoudi & Promara,
4 ranges of wines: Familiar (their original and best value range), Autochthon (single native varietal), Noble (international varieties), Ambassadors (the premium range including Commandaria).
Look out for their “Xinisteri Skin Contact” (Ambassador range) which spent 30 days in contact with Commandaria skins.
www.tsiakkaswinery.com - Vouni Panayia
Andreas Kyriakides was one of the first winemakers to focus exclusively on indigenous Cypriot grape varieties.
They produce over 10 labels of dry and dessert wines.
They have a purpose built tasting room with an outside taverna serving tradional meals and cheese.
www.vounipanayiawinery.com - Makarounas
A young, boutique winery established in 2016, but based on 4 generations of family traditions.
One of the few wineries to use the traditional pythari.
Look out for their skin contact Pomara, fermented on wild yeasts and aged for 5 months in pythari amphora
www.makarounaswinery.com
- Anama Concept – The controversial Commandaria
Professional jewellery designer (Kristina) & oenologist husban (Lefteris) can’t officially call their wine “Commandaria”.
It comes from the Commandaria region, but they break the DO rules including drying the grapes on the vines for months (not days).
Named “Anama” in reference to original name for Commandaria “Kyprion Nama”
The labels are made from natural materials and change each year and production under 2,000 bottles of 250ml
www.theanamacomncept.com - Fikardos – this winery comes highly recommended by local sommeliers, but I have yet to try their wines.
The events
(we are not aware of any annual Cypriot wine events in Cyprus, and will update this section if we do hear of any)
24 Hours in Nicosia
24 Hours in Larnaca
Either hire a car and visit the wineries around Limmasol (an easy day trip for 3-4 wineries), or take an organised tour with Cyprus Taste Tours
Restaurants, Wine bars & Wine Shops (non exhaustive)
NICOSIA
LARNACA
LIMMASOL
Recommended websites
wineriescyprus.com
An interactive map of Cyprus’ wineries and links to overview.
www.visitcyprus.com/~/wine-routes
Maps of the various wine routes in Cyprus – a great resource for planning any visits to wineries.
An snapshot map of the wine routes can be found here
gastro.cy
A database of excellent places to eat around Cyprus.
CyprusTasteTours.com
A friendly female run tour company based in Larnaca offering food and wine tours including wineries.
Groups are small (6 or less) and it may be possible to request specific wineries to visit.
A great option if you don’t fancy driving between wineries on the mountain roads.
Recommended books
Stowell’s Guide to the Wines & Wineries of Cyprus (Matthew Stowell)
A well written overview of the history of winemaking in Cyprus and profile of each producer.
A series relevant published articles by the author finish the book.