Zombie Wines

In 2017, I visited Australia for the first time, finally seeing my partner’s hometown and nosey-ing through her parents’ “wine collection”. It was also Halloween.

Her father, an ex-GP who doesn’t drink, had random bottles around the house that had been gifted to him, some from the 80s, still using now-protected appellation names.

Given the occasion, and that these wines were likely long dead, Amanda suggested a “zombie wine” tasting theme and to see if any were still semi-live.

Most were simply “dead” (self-explanatory), although amongst the “undead” were “zombies” (still a bit of life…of sorts) and “vampires” that were fairly charming when first poured, but within seconds faded to dust like a vampire exposed to sunlight.

Nearly a decade later, a good wine friend, Andy (@andy B on Vivino) decided to pick up on this theme, rummaging through the “cellar of dad” for long-forgotten wines. Along with me, Amanda and Keith (@keith campbell), we lined them up, plucked up some courage and got adventurous:

La Découverte 2002 Château Des Chapelains, Sainte Foy Bordeaux (blanc)

A white Bordeaux whose own back label advises drinking before 2006. I think the laugh that this elicited was the highlight of the experience.

The colour in the glass set the scene. The aromas had pineapple crème caramel.
The palate was bitter and woody with a Sherry-like character.

Andy suggested it could possibly be ok for cooking (baked zombie?), but ultimately poured it down the sink.
His verdict:

I’ve never had a wine so old and over the hill and yet weirdly still vaguely alive

Albariño 2013, Pazo das Bruxas, Rías Baixas

What an incidental on-theme bottle. The back label explains that “Bruxas” is Galician for “witches”!

I’ve had aged Albarin̄o before, and they can be delightful. This one was a bit of a gamble and could have gone either way. It went south.

A punchy, burning, saline aroma here.
“wood varnish” was a good call from @keith C here
Certainly not “good” in any sense at this stage, but I didn’t find it as repulsive as he did – a bit of a marmite / blue cheese one that divides the palates.
Reminds me of something you’d come across in a goodwill warehouse after a house clear-out.

After we had left (at a respectable hour), Andy kept going, DJ-ing to himself and giving the wines a fair chance over another 5 hours. Apparently this one

actually perked up a bit later in the evening, but it was still knackered and went down the sink!

Le Savour Club, Clos Saint-Georges, Graves, Bordeaux 1990

“Le Savour Club”…that alone lowered our expectations,
Then the cork … a musty, decaying zombie of a thing.
And “Graves” – genius!

The wine, however, was singing (albeit quietly).
The aromas had some underlying fragrant spice.
The palate was savoury with a touch of leather, but still some decent fruit concentration with some liquorice and blackcurrant along with dried fruit and cedar.
The acidity was high (drooly, but not “racy” and the wine fully evolved, yet very decent.

I think it was Keith who pointed out that:

it was a fascinating experience to witness wine evolving in real time.

Spoletoducale Montefalco Sagrantino 1993

We had no idea what to expect from this one and it turned out to be THAT wine where we poured ourselves seconds, and thirds and simply enjoyed it. A fantastic wine.

Fermenty aromas of prune and dried blackcurrant.
Quite Nebbiolo-ish in character on the palate.
I had stopped taking notes at this point, so quote Andy’s tasting notes of

baked cherry, blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, tarry liquorice, earthy tobacco & leather [aromas] with tarry blackberry, black cherry, dried blueberry, earthy liquorice, wild strawberry & dark cocoa. Creamy coffee bean, medium fine tannins and a long balanced finish [on the palate]

That’s quite a lot going on in a 33-year-old wine!