Japanese wines impress the French at home

The 2nd edition of the Salon des Vins Japonais took place in Beaune on 9 February 2025 where Japanese wines captured the hearts of the French in the heartland of French winemaking.

Japanese Wines

Many people outside the wine world are still unaware that wine is produced in Japan. Even some wine lovers have never heard of Japanese wines.
Finding them abroad can be a challenge; exports are limited, and most go to East Asian markets.

Many Japanese winemakers have trained in France, and one in particular, Genki-Motoki Iwasaki has worked tirelessly to gather the support of wineries from 20 prefectures on all 4 of Japan’s main islands to present their wines in France.

The Wineries and Visitors

140 wines were presented from 50 wineries, of which a 14 attended in person to present their wines, some of which are micro-wineries, one producing as few as 2,000 bottles / year (Tsuiji Lab).

600 visitors attended the tasting at La Chapelle de l’Oratoire, some travelling from as far as the south of France specifically for the event.
Almost every bottle was emptied, and producers were forced to limit their pours to one per visitor to ensure as many as possible could get the opportunity to taste these wines from the edge of the world. It was encouraging to hear many visitors recommending various wines to each other, and commenting on the high overall quality.

The organisation was equally impressive with a comprehensive list of numbered wines (which were presented in the corresponding order at the tables), accompanying map with links to winery information and a feedback form which hundreds of attendees completed and returned.

The Highlights

Although there were a range of Kōshū producers and styles available to taste, some of the highlights were the high quality Pinot Noir from Domaine Takahiko & Domaine Yui (both in Yoichi, Hokkaido), Fermier (Niigata) and de Montille.
De Montille (of Burgundy) have planted vines and established their own winery in Hakodate, Hokkaido, producing wines at 10R in Iwamizawa, Hokkaido in the interim.
Domaine Takahiko is famous for putting both Pinot Noir on the map in Japan, and Japanese wines on the world stage, with his iconic Nana-Tsu-Mori (“7 forests” – that had to be cleared to plant the 4.6 ha vineyard in 2010). Nana-Tsu-Mori is one of Japan’s rarest and most sought-after wines. people flock to this at any tasting and it will be the first to run-out at many events. Although Takahiko was unable to attend in person, his apprentice, Australian born Toru Takamatsu (the world’s youngest master sommelier) was there to present their 2 domaine wines (Nana-Tsu-Mori Pinot Noir and the dry Blanc de Noir from botrytised Pinot Noir) and their négociant Passetoutgrain (Pinot Noir + Zweigelt).

Fermier showcased 2 of their Albariño range, grown on the sandy coastal soils of Niigata and renowned in Japan as the top Albariño, a rare treat for wine lovers, inside or outside of Japan.

I was personally delighted (as a grape geek) to see a Japanese Verdelet (from Minami Sanriku Winery, Miyagi) and a Domain Hide‘s (Yamanashi’s iconic natural wine producer) Amarone style Yama Sauvignon Ripasso (a crossing of Cabernet Sauvignon and the indigenous Yamabudo “mountain grape”).

Other non-European grapes on show included Shōkōshi (“little prince” – a hybrid of Yamabudō x Russian/Himalayan mountain grapes), Aki Queen (Kyohō crossing), Bijou Noir ({Kōshū Sanjaku x Merlot} x Malbec), Black Queen (Bailey x Golden Queen) and the N American Delaware (vitis labrusca that grows well in the hot, humid Japanese climate) with Kitani Winery presenting 3 wines, all made from 100% Delaware.

Micro-producer, Burgundy trained Yoshio Amemiya from Diamond Winery presented his low key but highly rated Kōshū and Muscat Bailey A while sharing a stand with Château Mercian. Château Mercian is one of the most iconic wineries in Japan, pivotal in establishing Merlot in Nagano and encouraging a new generation of Japanese winemakers to find their own style of Japanese wine without trying to emulate the international styles.

Katsumi Tsuiji of Tsuiji Lab – a tiny producer of 2,000 wines attended in person with his flying winemaker Takahiro Suga who also makes wines in Adelaide Hills and Hawaii (Hawaii’s first and only grape winery).

The University of Yamanashi attended, showcasing their maiden vintage of the 2 grapes for which Yamanashi excels: Kōshū and Muscat Bailey A.

Domaine Tetta’s winemaker Yoshiya Kanno presented a wide range of minimum intervention wines with their minimalist, modern labels including a delicious sparkling Gewurztraminer and a Petit Manseng, a grape that seems to be faring well in Japan in recent years.
They also presented a wine from Aki Queen, a cross-breeding of Kyohō x Kyohō (Kyohō is a Japanese hybrid of Centennial x Ishihara Wase. A slip-skin table grape developed in Shizuoka 1937)

Shigeyuki Kusunoki of Kusonoki Winery presented his premium Dragon range of wines that fetch upwards of $50 in Japan – a privilege to be able to taste these.

Sanwa Shurui Winery from Ōita Prefecture introduced visitors to their wide range of wines, including the native Bijou Noir, a hybrid of (Kōshū Sanshaku x Merlot) x Malbec, in a European style wine that would be familiar to local palates and their Shōkoshi (“little prince”).

Despite visiting 2 of Manns Wine’s production facilities and tasting rooms, it wasn’t until this occasion that I got to try their Shinano Riesling (“Shinano” is the ancient name for Nagano prefecture) that they developed as a cross of Chardonnay x Riesling to cope with the Japanese climate. Their sweet cryo-extraction Shinano Riesling.

Although Domaine Yui were unable to attend in person, they presented their Pinot Noir and Chardonnays which sat alongside Domaine Takahiko and Yamadado, their 2 neighbours in Yoichi, Hokkaido.

Woody Farm winemaker Kazane Kimura presented her wines, including an impressive aged Cabernet Sauvignon, and also cleared up the mystery (in my mind) of the winery’s name: her father likes wooden buildings!

I look forward to the next Japanese wine salon, hopefully in 2026, and with any luck we’ll be able to taste some of the wines Genki is starting to produce in Tochigi prefecture.

It was great to bump into fellow Japanese winelovers at the event:
Diane (right) @Diane_Wine_Voyage who posts regularly about Japanese wines, wineries and history on Instagram
Mohona (middle) @the_winedian_girl who is passionate about Japanese wines.

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Salon des Vins Japonais